Why embark on such a journey?
We know the Rhine inside out, and we wanted to discover a river that was completely unfamiliar to us while immersing ourselves in Roman history—and experiencing something crazy and unpredictable into the bargain. But we weren’t given very much information in advance, except where to set off from and the fact that we’d get board and lodging provided. Ultimately, we had no idea what we’d let ourselves in for.
Were you dressed like Romans?
DThe project team suggested that we buy some Roman kit. First, that would have been too expensive and, second, we didn’t think it was a great idea anyway. After all, we didn’t know how things would pan out on the boat and didn’t want to be wearing tunics in case there were storms, let alone for any other reason. Before we set off, however, we found out that some of the crew had some fabric left over, so we made the snap decision to sew ourselves some tunics after all. With it being 36°C on the water, they turned out to be the perfect outfit, one that also worked as a towel, a sleeping mat for a night spent on the riverbank, or a comfy cushion.
That sounds a bit like re-enactment.
Nobody in our crew was a re-enactor, and we didn’t reckon much to that sort of thing. However, the organizers had filled the crew before us with re-enactors. When they handed the boat over to us, therefore, they looked at us with deep suspicion. However, we definitely learned some Latin phrases too, which we made diligent use of. In the boat, though, we all spoke English, because our crew came from about six different countries.
How does a Roman boat differ from a modern rowing boat?
Our boat, the Danuvina Alacris, was built in the Roman style, with oak trees cut down specifically for the purpose and tools that the Romans would have used. As rowers from Bonn, we’re used to lightweight, nimble boats made from carbon fiber. At the start, we weren’t sure whether this one, which weighed around 6 metric tons, could even be maneuvered properly. Unexpectedly, though, it managed very well. That was down not least to the highly coordinated way in which the team—a dozen experienced rowers and a far-sighted captain—all worked together. We had a strong degree of trust in the boat. Rowing a lusoria-type boat like this one is very different from the sport as it is today as you only use your arms and your upper body. With modern rowing, a lot of power comes from your legs, and you exert more pressure on the water. Modern oars are perfectly balanced and made of high-tech carbon, whereas we used heavy wooden cudgels in the Roman boat.
What kind of welcome did you get in Hungary?
A very warm one. It was an indescribable feeling to be the first people in maybe 1,600 years to travel down this stretch of the Danube in a boat like that. Wherever we went, people celebrated our arrival with receptions and parties. They cooked for us as if we had hardly eaten for weeks.
What will you take away from the experience?
It was a unique and unforgettable trip. We learned a huge amount about Roman history and had exclusive guided tours of archaeological digs and museums. None of us knew hardly anything about the fascinating history of the Danube Limes. As someone who spends all their time rowing on the Rhine, it was also a wonderful experience getting to know a completely different river. We swam and rowed in the Danube and camped overnight on its banks, and it was a really special way to get to know the area and its people.
What would your dream be?
The original Roman boat on which ours is based was discovered in Mainz. Wouldn’t it be fantastic to row our replica down the Rhine from Mainz to Bonn one day? With a reception in our boathouse at the University thrown in…